The 1853 Diary of the Reverend George F. Whitworth
http://www.familyheritageseries.org/site/articles/53/1/The-1853-Diary-of-the-Reverend-George-F-Whitworth/Page1.html
Author: FHS Editor
Published on 03/23/2003
The "1853 Diary of the Reverend George F. Whitworth," Whitworth College Archives, Spokane, WA (unpublished manuscript: Whitworth, George Frederick, 1816-1907. Diary, 1853). Used by permission from the Whitworth College Archives.
In 1853, Edmund Richardson traveled with his small family, his mother-in-law, sister-in-law and her husband toward Oregon to help establish a religious colony in Oregon Territory under the direction of the Reverend George F. Whitworth, whose 1853 diary provides an indirect account of the Richardsons' trail experiences west from Indiana on the Oregon Trail.
March 1853 Journal Entries
March 23, 1853: Wednesday
"Morning clear & frosty. After early breakfast rode as far as Claysville & walked from that to Saltillo. Reached depot before 8 o’clock half an hour ahead of the cars. Expenses to N. Albany 65 cts. Met Richardson at Louisville. Sent Letter home by Bait Boat. Richardson left in the evening to get on as quickly as possible to St. Louis."
April 1853 Journal Entries
April 22, 1853: Friday
"Day clear and warm. More pleasant than yesterday. Less wind. Wrote back to Charley Coombs at Cannelton. As night close in appearance of rising storm. Thick clouds in South West with lightning. Expense of trip $64.50. Arthur $7, Ms. D $8, Mr. H $10—making together $89.50."
April 23, 1853: Saturday
"Reached St. Louis about Midnight last night. Found letters from Mr. Richardson & Wallace. Several boats for the Missouri but getting pretty well filled. Took passage on Timour No. 2 to leave on Monday. Moved on board after dating dinner on Wharfs Boat. Called on Rev. L.J.P. Anderson & Mr. Band Editor of St. Louis Presbyterian. Wharfage and Drayage—$3.00."
April 24, 1853: Sunday
"The Rain of last evening has had greater effect upon the weather making it gentle cool—especially in the afternoon. Went to Central Ch[urch]. Prof. Ryons preached in morning."
"Not on the boat when Rev. L.J.P. Anderson called. Went to his study there met with Prof. Ryons. Bought two tents besides other articles of outfit."
April 26, 1853: Tuesday
"Completed purchases of groceries—crackers Meat Buscuits etc. Had ... put about the beehive—Hoped to start in the evening but disappointed."
April 27, 1853: Wednesday
"Left St. Louis at ½ past 6 o’clock. Entered the Missouri at about 3 pm. Had a pretty good view of Alton [Illinois]. The waters of the Mississippi very muddy but at the mouth of the Missouri the line of no mud distinctly marked."
April 28, 1853: Thursday
"Boat making slow progress. Some gain during the morning. Day cloudy & part of the time quite cool. The only place of note today was Washington on the left bank of the Missouri River. About sundown, the lightning increased in frequency. Stormy & dark. Boat laid up about 9 o’clock. Tried to storm some during night."
April 29, 1853: Friday
"Made but little progress last night. Clearing cloudy & cool. Troubled considerably with a dull .... of tooth & jaw ache. Reached Jefferson city about 9 o’clock pm. In the after part of the day it became clear & pleasant."
April 30, 1853: Saturday
"Pleasant Day—State slowly advancing have made but 27 miles during the night. Reached Boonville at 3 o’clock pm. Met the F.X. Aubrey. After dark were passed by some boat supposed to be the St. Ange."
May 1-15, 1853
May 1, 1853: Sunday
"During the night & early this morning got rid of a good deal of freight. Boat lightened up and is running pretty well. Were passed by the Honduras about 6 o’clock am. No religious service on board."
May 2, 1853: Monday
"Reached Lexington before breakfast. Lay there several hours discharging freight. In the meantime I rambled over town. A beautiful and flourishing place. Bought Ink & Blk Tea. At Camden about 3 o’clock. Remained there two hours discharging freight. Rambled over hills. Bought 2 bush oats."
May 3, 1853: Tuesday
"Early at Wayne city. Arrived at Kansas sound after breakfast. Remained there over 3 hours discharging freight, some for Westport but mostly for Santa Fe."
May 4, 1853: Wednesday
"Last night—laid up all night at Weston, where we arrived at ½ past ten o’clock. Rained all night. Left at day light. State raining & cold and so continued until nearly night. Arrived at St. Josephs about 6 o’clock. Excessively muddy. Richardson & Carson met us on the boat with the information that the rest of the company had gone."
May 5, 1853: Thursday
"Staid on the boat all night at the invitation of the captain. Went out early before breakfast & secured a small horse for a week. Moved up our things with the aid of Mr. Richardsons team. Took us till noon. Bought his yoke of oxen on Mr. R. Dones."
May 6, 1853: Friday
"Went out in the country to buy cattle. Cloudy & at times rainy during the day. Stopped all night at a house that was hardly fit for a stable yet occupied by a man who is apparently tolerably well off. Some fine rich country. Rolling prairie covered now with an abundance of strawberry in full bloom. Timber occasionally."
May 7, 1853: Saturday
"Day more pleasant than yesterday but showery. Took dinner with a Mr. Davis a Cumberland Presbyterian. Made our way back to St. Joseph & arrived there about sun down."
May 8, 1853: Sunday
"Went to the Pres[byterian] Church, heard Mr. Rud the pastor who has just been installed. At noon after returning home Mr. Richardson brought a letter just rec’d which informed us that a portion of the company even yet waiting for us at Savannah but so brief & indefinite as seemed to render it necessary for mw to go up immediately."
May 9, 1853: Monday
"Returned late last night from Savannah. We went out in the country to se [sic] some more cattle & complete my teams. Richardson & Carson framing up my waggons [sic]. Got home again about five o’clock."
May 10, 1853: Tuesday
"Took waggons to blacksmiths shop. Took nearly all day to get done what work I wanted & Bought meat & few other articles. Had staples and rings put in ox yokes ..."
May 11, 1853: Wednesday
"Fixed ox yokes & yoked up cows & drove them round awhile to break them in which was done without much difficulty. Loaded up waggons & started about ½ past four. Went out of town a short distance & camped. Neither grass nor grain to be had for cattle. First night of camping. Rained in the night."
May 12, 1853: Thursday
"Started early, made slow progress over desperate hilly road, and did not reach Savannah until a little before dark. All exceedingly tired. Much discouraged. Others have started on and are encamped about 7 miles from ... Did not camp but put up at a house of entertainment. Boys slept in the waggons."
May 13, 1853: Friday
"Rose early this morning and rode about 6 miles to where company are understood to be camping. Found them, made arrangements to have their teams come in to assist us out & returned to Savannah before breakfast. Disposed of chickens, Bees & various articles so as to lighten the load. Late about starting & arrived at camp at 3 o’clock."
May 14, 1853: Saturday
"Went to within one mile of Oregon [town] and camped until Monday morning. Secured Sheaf Oats and a circle corn & a brush pasture for our stock. Day warm & pleasant somewhat windy. Road runs over a high rolling prairie."
May 15, 1853: Sunday
"Day fine and warm. Had to take out the cattle & water them in the morning & then placed guard to keep them from injuring some wheat in same enclosure. Preached in the afternoon from I Jno. 4:18."
May 16-31, 1853
May 16, 1853: Monday
"Rose early & before we had the cattle entirely fed commenced raining, & rained very hard for some hours. A part of the company went out to procure a bull which was purchased as common stock for the families at $25.00."
May 17, 1853: Tuesday
"Rained last night and this morning, making camp quite muddy and unpleasant getting about. Quite a storm in the night. Late starting. A muddy road through the Missouri bottom. Arrive at the river about two o’clock. Part of the teams went over but mine were left till last, & getting quite dark & storms threatening—we laid over till morning."
May 18, 1853: Wednesday
"The wind blew a perfect gale last night & very cold this morning. Here we met with Indians who are just on the other side. Packed up Camp Chest & left with Jim Banks at his ranch house, the landing being called Iowa Point, with Arthur Chick’s trunk to be shipped to Boston to the care of ... & thence to Pugets Sound."
May 19, 1853: Thursday
"Yesterday the wind continued so high until dark that it was unsafe to cross. I passed over however to the camp with some Indians in a canoe. This morning it is clear & calm but river rising and a strong current. Ferried over & started about noon. Paid Indians for two waggons—50 cents. Passed another lodge—paid 50 [cents] more for bridge. Camped in the open prairie."
May 20, 1853: Friday
"The country yesterday was beautiful & rather dry rolling prairie but today encountered some bad slews [sic]. Started at 7 o’clock. Camped on Crooked Creek."
May 21, 1853: Saturday
"Started at ½ past 7. A few ponds on the road, where at intervals timber may be seen at from ½ a mile to two miles distant. Camped about two miles from the road to the left. Late arriving in camp. Were about 7 miles from Nemahaw. About a mile or 1 ½ beyond where we turned off of—timber within ½ mile of the road to the right."
May 22, 1853: Sunday
"Last night was stormy. Cattle scattered out & several of them were lost. Had to go out in various directions to find them. Went as far as the Nemahaw, after a company who camped near us Monday. Richardson & Carson found them—back on the road about 6 miles—about being taken into a drive of cattle. Morning rainy. No religious service."
May 23, 1853: Monday
"Started in good time. Pleasant weather. Crossed the Nemahaw before noon. Right hand crossing is rough. Large Rocks in bed of the creek & the bank on both sides steep & difficult. Left hand crossing—gradual descent on both sides & creek gravelly bottom. Travelled [sic] about 19 miles. Camped on Stony Creek."
May 24, 1853: Tuesday
"Found timber near the road a good portion of the way. Crossed two small branches. Camped on the prairie— a short distance after crossing the last branch taking wood with us & going ½ mile after water."
May 25, 1853: Wednesday
"Started Early reached Big Blue [River] at noon. A large number of waggons & vast amount of stock collected here. River high but falling. Most of the stock are driven into the creek to swim over. A ferry is established for waggons. $3.00 rides driving one yoke of cattle—Extra cattle 50 cents a head. Camped back about a mile from ferry—on Blue River."
May 26, 1853: Thursday
"Remained at camp all day. Women washed. Fixed lock chains. Reloaded waggons. A fine camp. Wood plenty & some excellent springs of water emptying in the river bottom. This camp is about ¾ mile from the road & is on the edge of the bluff, where a scattering orchard of Post Oaks grow."
May 27, 1853: Friday
"Started about ½ past 7 from camp. Detained for some time at the river before crossing, but got all over about one o’clock & started on two or three miles & stopped to give cattle grass, & eat our dinners. Endeavored to reach small branch, but many cattle in sight about it. Stopped a little beyond Independence Road on the left. Found water & grass."
May 28, 1853: Saturday
"Started ½ past 6—Drove on without stopping at noon hoping to make a camping place early in the afternoon. Guide Books indicating one at a distance of 17 miles on a branch probably Otter Creek. Did not reach it until about 5 o’clock. Road hilly. Have good camp. Grass, wood, & water to the right of the road. Staked our cattle. Heavy Shower of Rain & Lightning in the night."
May 29, 1853: Sunday
"This morning & good part of the day shining & rainy at some times rather heavily. Rose rather late. the branch which had little water in last night gives indications of having had from eight to ten feet depth of water having been over its lower banks. Cleared of [sic] somewhat in the afternoon. Preached at 3 o’clock from Heb. 11:8-10."
May 30, 1853: Monday
"Rose at 4, started at 7. Road pretty much same as on Saturday hilly. Crossed a small branch miles from the one on which we camped. Timber in sight to the left & broken, rugged bluffs probably of [sic] the banks of the latter. Some bad hills. especially at Little Sandy & between that & Big Sandy. Crossed B. S. [Big Sandy] & camped one mile beyond to the right, good grass. Wood & Water ¼ mile on creek."
May 31, 1853: Tuesday
"Rose at 4 Started at 6 o’clock. Com[menced] raining & cont[inued] to for about two hours. Timber at intervals to the right & left from ½ to 2 m[iles] indicating branches. Rained more or less at intervals during the day. Camped one mile beyond creek, where water & wood was obtained. Stood guard for the first time at night from 1 to 5 am. Stormy during the night."
June 1-15, 1853
June 1, 1853: Wednesday
"Started about about 7. Changed the train. Commenced raining soon after leaving & cont. to rain a good part of the day. Road hilly & muddy. Several short but steep hills. Water in the hollows in little ponds on both sides of the road, suitable for stock. Camped on Little blue [sic] soon after reaching it. Creek high & rising."
June 2, 1853: Thursday
"Left camp little later than usual. Made preliminary arrangement for exchanging cattle with a driver. Travelled [sic] along river bottom except in a few places where it kept on the bluff. Travelled about 19 miles. Met a band of Arapahoes just as we were about to make camp. Had to place strict guard. Did not stop until nearly sundown."
June 3, 1853: Friday
"Indians camped in sight last night but did not molest us. Went on early about 3 miles & perfected my trade with drivers, paid 40 dollars. Move on the Little Blue. Camped at night on the same, Quite late. Grass scarce. Passed over some places which are made bad by recent rains."
June 4, 1853: Saturday
"Left camp a little before 8 o’clock. Kept along the river bottom till about noon then left the river. Grass quite thin along river bottom. Camped for Sabbath a little before 4 o’clock on the first creek after leaving Blue River. Went on immediately after drove of cattle to make an exchange for yoke of steers—paid $30. After 9 o’clock when I returned to cap [camp?] got a little out of the way."
June 5, 1853: Sunday
"Terrible Storm on Mud & Rain last night, flooding the tents in which the boys slept. Beds & Bedding got thoroughly soaked with rain & all our clothing wet. Had to dry them today. Removed waggons & Tents first thing in the morning. (Found a difficulty existing.) Preaching ½ past 12, Heb. 2:6. Some of the drivers present."
June 6, 1853: Monday
"Left camp about 7. Travelled 21 miles, passed over sand hills into the Platte Bottom & camped in sight of the river on a sunny stream. No wood near. Brought wood with us."
June 7, 1853: Tuesday
"Travelled beyond Fort Kearney 3 miles along the bottom some bad road. Camped on a little sunny branch. No wood but Sorel & willow bushes. Platte River apparently high—so as to preclude crossing to the islands. Learned at Fort Kearney that over 90,000 head of stock had passed."
June 8, 1853: Wednesday
"Was very sick in the morning with diarrhea & sickness at the stomach. Suffered much with pain. Had rain in the night. Sent letters back to the Fort, on to Harrison —to Wallace & to Father’s, travelled 18 miles & camped on the river."
June 9, 1853: Thursday
"Was better—travelled but a short distance & camped again on the river. Wood quite scarce."
June 10, 1853: Friday
"Travelled about 18 miles—crossed a river or a creek & a little below us found a good spring in the bed of the creek."
June 11, 1853: Saturday
"Travelled about 20 miles—passing a point where there is good wood & water. Cottonwood are small. Camped near the Platte on a little pond. Used drift wood for fuel."
June 12, 1853: Sunday
"Wind blew a complete hurricane all day —so that we could have no service. Gave out a lesson for Bible class. Wind continued all night."
June 13, 1853: Monday
"Travelled a good distance and camped on a point near the bluffs. Grass there. Passed the Cottonwood point which is about 20 miles from the place for timber on Saturday, Water. Grass remarkably fine. Crossed 4 streams—nearly all dry & but a short distance apart. Wood on each of them."
June 14, 1853: Tuesday
"Made a good days travel. Mr. Pitney shot an antelope. Camped on a small stream in the river bottom, some 12 or 15 miles from South Fork [of the Platte]."
June 15, 1853: Wednesday
"Started about 7. Reached South Fork of the Platte about ½ past two. Found the stream high, so as to require the Waggon Beds to be raised. Camped on the river."
June 16-30, 1853
June 16, 1853: Thursday
"Got our waggons ready, examined the Ford & started over a little after 10—had to Wade the river & drive. Mr. Hay’s team & mine—crossed first successfully. Richardson’s team upset just as their waggon was going into the river. The next trip my family waggon nearly upset. Had to unload & place things on upper bottom & passed over safely."
June 17, 1853: Friday
"Went about 18 miles up the South Fork & camped on a fine spring by the side of a running stream. Water quite cold. Grass on the other side of the branch remarkably good."
June 18, 1853: Saturday
"Remained in camp. Women washed. Wood on islands & made some use of Buffalo chips. Made some repairs & changed in the waggons, aired provisions. Sultry day."
June 19, 1853: Sunday
"Continued in camp. Bible class in the morning, Lesson Luke 3:1-18. Preached in the afternoon from 1 Timothy 3:16. Day warm but pleasant breeze & somewhat cloudy. At night a heavy storm of lightning, thunder & rain."
June 20, 1853: Monday
"Rose a little after 3. Left camp a few minutes before 6. Kept up the bottom about 8 miles before ascending the bluffs. Grass somewhat there. Stopped at noon near a pond. Camped at night in the bottom but quite a distance from the river. A warm day & not much air stirring."
June 21, 1853: Tuesday
"Left camp about 6. Passed over sandy road along the foot of bluff. Moved a short distance from the river. Mr. Hay’s & Richardson’s teams went a little ahead before stopping. Another warm day. Camped at night at Cedar Bluffs. Fine Springs of water. Cedar wood."
June 22, 1853: Wednesday
"Left at 6. Passed over high hill—down to Ash Hollow, got some wood—drove on some 3 miles & nooned where cedar was plenty on the bluffs, took in some more wood. Wind blew a perfect hurricane—filling air with clouds of sand & dust. striking the face at times severely. Sandy road, very. Camped near the river at Castle Bluffs."
June 23, 1853: Thursday
"Did not rise till 4 o’clock, the guard having failed to rouse the camp at 3. Did not leave camp till 7 o’clock. Some long stretches of sand in the morning. After a drive of about 8 miles stopped for noon—Camped on Platte on a Sandy knoll. Sand not so bad in the afternoon. Cool night. Stood guard the latter part of the night. No trouble from Mosquitos."
June 24, 1853: Friday
"Left camp about 6. Road better.... Crossed Spring Creek & nooned. Mosquitos quite troublesome in the morning after starting. Spring Creek, cold water. Camped in sight of Court House Rock."
June 25, 1853: Saturday
"Started at 6 o’clock. Passed Court House having crossed the creek. A fine stream. After a long tedious drive camped on the Platte River about 3 miles beyond Chimney Rock."
June 26, 1853: Sunday
"Remained in camp. Preached at 12 from Jno. 10:10. Bible class Luke 3:21-23 & 4:1-13. In the evening walked over to Chimney Rock."
June 26, 1853: Sunday
"Remained in camp. Preached at 12 from Jno. 10:10. Bible class Luke 3:21-23 & 4:1-13. In the evening walked over to Chimney Rock."
June 27, 1853: Monday
"Left camp at 6. A long drive, stopped at noon on the bluffs soon after leaving the river. At noon the wind rose & blew a perfect hurricane. The air filled with sand in the afternoon, worse that previous day. Camped at night in Chimney Valley near Scotts Bluffs. Very cold night."
June 28, 1853: Tuesday
"Morning extremely cold—Remained in camp. Washing day. Coupled my waggons shorter & cut of [sic] the beds. Took wood."
June 29, 1853: Wednesday
"Started at 6. First part of the road hilly & at the top of the highest caught a view of the Laramies Peak. Saw a large body of smoke on the opposite side of the River, and at night. Crossed Horse Creek. A fine stream. Camped about 3 miles from river."
June 30, 1853: Thursday
"Left at 6. Passed trading posts before noon, crossing gravelly hills & nooned in the bottom at some distance from the river. Camped on a Sandy plain at the foot of the bluffs not far from Shaws trading post and about 4 miles from Laramies Creek."
July 1-15, 1853
July 1, 1853: Friday
"Left camp a little after 6. Drove to Laramies Fort. Ferried Waggons—$2.00. Drove all our cattle across. Went to the Fort. Mailed letters to W.W. Hill, L.H.T., C.C. Jones, L. Hart & Father. Eliz to Mrs. Porter & J.H.T Sold waggon to store for 20 dol. Bought Light do [ditto] for 40 dols. Drove out about 6 miles & camped with Bromby’s company."
"After trading waggons—returned to the fort with the one sold & received from. I’d not overtake my waggons until just as they got to camp, having reached the company. Passed Warm Springs, a short distance to the right of the road where it takes a short turn to the left. Camped on Bottom. Cottonwood Creek."
July 2, 1853: Saturday
"After trading waggons—returned to the fort with the one sold & received from. I’d not overtake my waggons until just as they got to camp, having reached the company. Passed Warm Springs, a short distance to the right of the road where it takes a short turn to the left. Camped on Bottom. Cottonwood Creek."
July 3, 1853: Sunday
"Remained in camp over Sabbath. Grass tolerably good. Excellent water & abundant, Plenty of wood & good shade. Was laid up most of the day, my ride of yesterday having greatly aggravated the pain in my back. Suffering from an attack of Lumbago, very severe. In addition 2 biles [sic] on my back. Washed in the creek. Bible class Jno. 1:1-18."
July 4, 1853: Monday
"Started about 6. Returned about 3 miles to trading post to take the other road. Crossed two or three branches. Descended some hills tolerably rough. Nooned in Platte bottom near the bluff. Springs to the right of the road. Camped on Horse Shoe Creek. Good Grass. Water & wood."
July 5, 1853: Tuesday
"Left camp about 6. Stopped to visit Kanyon, & nooned at the grass. Good grass in the bottom beyond overflow of Platte—destroyed wood, indicated by Walker. Ascended Bluff & going about 3 miles camped on a creek. Good springs cold water. Ferry near—not advisable to cross here."
July 6, 1853: Wednesday
"Left camp at 6. Harry accidentally left my horse halter where we stopped at noon yesterday. I rode back & obtained it. Road pretty well described by Walker. Hard days [sic] travel over 20 miles, no grass, did not stop at noon. A part of the waggons are ahead. Did not overtake them until they camped. Good camp to the right of the road some two miles after passing springs."
July 7, 1853: Thursday
"Left camp about 9. Had good water some fine springs Good grass. Cattle not staked last night and having good grass, Cattle were left to eat longer than usual. Nooned on La Prele. No grass. Camped on Forche Bois. Hilly road. Current rapid & deep in places. Crossed some deep Ravines. Steep banks. Crossed one 3 times."
July 8, 1853: Friday
"Remained in camp & shod our cattle that had tender feet. Left a little after 12. Found Black Smith’s shop near Deer Creek. A long hill to ascend upon leaving Forche Bois. Fine Branch of water. Deep Ford unless you incline upward. Camped about 4 miles from Deer Creek. Poor Grass."
July 9, 1853: Saturday
"Left camp 6:20. Travelled on lite [?] ½ past 10 found good grass at the foot of the Bluffs. A little after 12 & Buffalo appeared in sight within ½ mile. Chase was given—but hey escaped. Mr. Hay—Post & myself kept on found two more, shot one. Waggons had started but advanced about a mile when the signal given stopped them. Reached camp with meat about dark."
July 10, 1853: Sunday
"Fine warm day. Our camp not on very good ground & too near the road. Only a short distance from the Platte, where we obtained wood & water. Had to dry our meat by jerking it, so as to save it. A wounded Buffalo—done by hunters passed within a few feet of camp."
July 11, 1853: Monday
"Started about 6. I had Jerry myself. Crossed three branches before reaching bridge—Ferriage $5 per waggon and a yoke. Loose stock 12½ cts per head. Rise & descend a sandy hill—& then another long-and-steep. Cross branch 6 times. Camped on bluff—poor grass—neither wood nor water."
July 12, 1853: Tuesday
"Windy night & morning. Continued till noon. Started a little after 6. Drove on to the neighborhood of Red Buttes. Found meadow about a mile up the creek—which empties in the river where the road leaves it. Two waggons found us here. Camped about 7 miles. Good grass to the left in a large valley—1½ [miles] from road. Water we found."
July 13, 1853: Wednesday
"Left camp a little after 6. Shortly after leaving stopped & helped mess a Buffalo killed by one of the newcomers. Some 3 or 4 miles on & shortly after descending a long & somewhat rocky hill—came to a good spring on the left. 6 miles before reaching Willow Sp. there is good grass, a little to the left of the road. Camped on little river."
July 14, 1853: Thursday
"Grass short—did not leave until 7 o’clock. Find our camp about 3 m[iles] from Greasewood [Creek]. Mr. Hay passed us last evening—without knowing it & camped on ground. Nooned on Sweetwater, & then drove up about 2 miles beyond Independence Rock & camped."
July 15, 1853: Friday
"Unloaded waggons & went to the Rocky Bluffs for Wood. Washing—took of [sic] the wheels to reset the tire."
July 16-27, 1853
July 16, 1853: Saturday
"Got the tires reset & waggons reloaded."
July 17, 1853: Sunday
"Found a stray cow in good order. Preached in the morning from Ps.—Bible class in afternoon. Jno. 1."
July 18, 1853: Monday
"Left camp about 6. Passed the [Devil’s] Gate—good grass nearly all the way till noon. Drove about 13 miles—some after crossing creek to the right, good grass on the river. Went on about 8 miles & camped on the river, having taken the river road instead of the one indicated by Walker. Suppose we made 21 miles. Election had & I was chosen P. Mr. Hay LP."
July 19, 1853: Tuesday
"Left camp about ½ past 6. Some sandy road. Passed two trains on the road. Nooned near the 2d Ford poor grass. Alkali strong in the river bottom. Drove on, passed some excellent grass—too early to stop. Went on a few miles farther—and camped on Sweetwater—about a mile below the ford. Short grass."
July 20, 1853: Wednesday
"Drove through the Alkali region. Found no ice in the Marsh. Apparently good grass & water near where we first struck the marsh. Drove to the river & having crossed drove our cattle up the river between the bluffs. Left again about 7 & drove on to the next ford & Camped for the night though from grass."
July 21, 1853: Thursday
"Left camp at 5½ o’c. Drove 5 miles according to Walker. Grazed the cattle in the ravine where the willows are—good grass & water. A fine spring in the bluff below the road & recently opened. Road pretty accurately described by Walker—except as to the part to avoid rocky ridges. So indefinite—& but little used that we missed it. Camped on Willow Creek about 2 miles down it. Fine water--good grass. Bank of snow near road—at the crossing of Sweetwater [No.] 8."
July 22, 1853: Friday
"Left camp quite late, owing to the loss of one of Mr. Pitney’s oxen. He was found about 8 o’clock. There is good grass & water springs a little to the left of the road in a hollow—about 2½ miles after crossing Willow Creek, ¾ of a mile from the road. Crossed Sweetwater & nooned some 3 or 4 miles beyond. Drove on to Pacific Creek—found no place to camp—because of the scarcity of grass. Turned out our cattle till moon rose & drove on."
July 23, 1853: Saturday
"Reached Little Sandy about 7 o’clock AM. Stopped for breakfast & drove the cattle up the creek. No grass of any account. Rested the cattle till about 1 o’clock & started for Big Sandy. Forded & found tolerably good grass about ½ mile below. Camped."
July 24, 1853: Sunday
"Remained in camp. Preached from Rom. 12:1, Bible lesson Jno. 1:35-51. Went in afternoon with Mr. Hay to Little Sandy—to see a Scotch Presbyterian recently from Pittsburg [sic] bound for Oregon."
July 25, 1853: Monday
"Left camp a little after 6. Drove down Big Sandy, Striking Salt Lake Road nearly two miles from where it crosses the creek, & some 7 or 8 miles this side of [17-mile] Big Sandy. Above us the creek was about ¾ mile distant. Pretty good bunch of grass from the road. Rode 6 miles for water."
July 26, 1853: Tuesday
"Mr. Richardson’s ox died last night with murrain. [Any of various highly infectious diseases of cattle, such as anthrax, hoof-and-mouth, etc.] The cattle were drove of [sic] to better grass & were late starting on our way. Took the right hand road at B. Sandy, up the hill. Road good to Green River. Descent to river easy. Mr. R. left us to put into Salt Lake to winter owing to the weakness of his team."
July 27, 1853: Wednesday
"Cattle on pretty good grass. Did not cross the river until about noon. Ferry $6 per waggon. Swim stock. Road we came yesterday Kinney Cutoff and is 15 to 16 miles across to Green River. Road generally good—some bunch grass along the road. Went up the river about 4 miles—Found fine grass on an island. Camped on the river."
[Enroute to Salt Lake City, the Richardsons most likely crossed the Green River on the Lombard Ferry, about 10 miles down-river from the ferry the Whitworth party used.]
[Excerpts from After the Trial of Your Faith, by Jeff Richins]
July 26, 1853: Tuesday
When John Carson, taking his turn at the 1-4 a.m. guard post, awoke the members of the small train for the beginning of the new day, Edmund rose with the dilemma immediately before him. It was as if he’d not slept at all. He reached to awaken Mary Ann, but then thought he might let her sleep a few more minutes. He stirred the smoldering buffalo chips to try to bring the fire back to life and then splashed water on his face.
Normally he would send George to bring in the oxen, but he was worried about the sick ox, and thought he’d better go bring it in himself. In the gray predawn he walked to the hollow where they had left the oxen the night before in hobbles. Talking softly to them to apprise them of his coming, his eyes were drawn to a dark form off to the side, lying awkwardly. As he approached, his fears were confirmed when he recognized the lifeless body of his ox. He took the hobbles, which served much the same as cuffs, off the front legs of the animal and carried them back to camp.
Edmund sat for a few minutes, staring at the smoldering fire. Finally he got up to fan the flames and put some coffee on to boil. He roused his family and began the day’s preparations as normal. It was already light when thirteen-year-old James Whitworth came running and calling, “Mr. Richardson! Mr. Richardson! I think your ox is dead!”
Mary Ann’s eyes grew wide as Edmund held up the hobbles, “Yes, James, I think you’re right.” At the question in her eyes, he shrugged. “It didn’t look real well last night, but I didn’t expect this.”
Several people approached the Richardson wagon, but John Pitney was the first to speak. “I feel real bad,” he commented with feigned sympathy, “but we can’t wait on you no more.”
Edmund was too drained to even react. “Yeah, whatever, John…”
Harriet Darrow, Mary Ann’s mother, approached with others and asked, “What are you going to do? Maybe we can lend you an ox.”
“No, Mother Darrow,” Edmund replied, “you’ve already lost one and you’re going to need all you’ve got to make it to Oregon. We’re only half way there. No… Mary Ann and I talked last night and we know we’re not going to be able to make it to Oregon this year. This just clinched it. It’s late July and you all need to make up some time in order to get there before the winter.”
“Well, what are you going to do?” Harriet repeated.
Edmund paused. “Right up ahead is the Kinney Cutoff. The Oregon Trail heads on northwest, and a few miles up the road, at the ‘Parting of the Ways,’ is a road heading southwest to Salt Lake City…” He let the words sink in.
“You’re not really thinking of going down there, are you?” Harriet gasped.
Mary Ann interjected, “Well, we were. This dead ox may present a problem, though.”
In his eagerness to be overly helpful, John Pitney almost blubbered out, “Maybe you can use your milk cow.”
For once Edmund agreed with him. “Yeah, that might work.”
Harriet wouldn’t hear it. “But that’s a couple hundred miles! You’d be alone!”
A flood of comments from different people now gathering joined in. “That’s Ute country and they’re on the warpath.” “Salt Lake is full of Mormons! I don’t know which is more dangerous, the Utes or the Mormons!” “And them Mormons is devil worshipers… they got horns, ya know, my brother seen ‘em. He said they sacrifice virgins and then throw ‘em in the Salt Lake.”
“Hogwash!” someone interrupted. It was Reverend Whitworth. “What are you? Witch burners from Salem? You believe every story you hear? Horns, indeed! The Mormons have some vile doctrines but they’re not witches.
“…Tell you what you do,” he continued. “Go down there and set up camp near enough to be protected from the Indians, but far enough to protect yourself from the Mormons.”
Edmund nodded, “That’s what we were thinking. I might be able to find work in order to buy the oxen and supplies we’ll need to come to Oregon next Spring.”
“I still don’t like it!” Harriet protested.
Mary Ann hugged her mother. “Do you have any better ideas, Momma?”
After a minute, Harriet shook her head. “No, I guess you’re right. How about if we take the children?”
“No, Momma, we’re a family. We need to do this together.”
Edmund and John Carson put Speck, the family milk cow, in the yoke. 4 She fought it for a minute, but shortly settled into her new role. They moved the drawbar and linchpin over on the yoke so that the greater portion of the load was shifted to the ox so as to save the strength of the cow.
As good-byes and wishes for good luck were offered, Emma peeked over her mother’s shoulder and caught the eyes she was looking for. Thad Bell busied himself with the latigo on his saddle but looked earnestly toward Emma. Since he’d started seeing her as pretty instead of freckle-faced, he’d hardly said five words to her. Before he had noticed the change, he’d often chatted amiably with her, but now he couldn’t think of one word to say that didn’t sound foolish.
Emma hesitantly waved a couple of fingers at him. He almost dislodged his hat trying to wave back. He tried to talk himself into going over to talk with her but just then a call to move out was sounded and now it was too late.
Harriet walked ahead with the Richardsons the remaining two miles to the “Parting of the Ways”, wanting to spend the last few hours with her family. At the turnoff, she hugged her daughter and grandchildren. “Why do I get the feeling that I’ll never see you again?” she finally said with a distressed voice.
Mary Ann attempted to be cheerful. “We’ll be in Oregon next summer, Momma. We’ll be fine. Write to us so we’ll know where you are and tell us all about it.”
Harriet acted as if she hadn’t even heard her daughter. Turning to her granddaughter, she said, “Oh Emma, you’re becoming such a lovely young woman. Be faithful to God. He has something great in store for you. But I feel he has a trial for you first. Keep your eye on the prize.”
Then she turned and kissed George, “Georgie, you’re looking more like your Grandpa every day. You’re turning into a fine young man. I love you both so much.”
“We love you too, Grandma,” they assured. Grandmas always get blubbery, George thought.
Harriet Darrow watched and waved as the Richardsons began the trail southward. As she waited for the wagon train to catch up, she found a large rock to sit on and cried.
Soon distance separated the two groups. The Richardsons found themselves peering back towards the North until nothing could be seen of the wagon train but a small cloud of dust shimmering in the July heat. Never had they felt so alone and so vulnerable. No one felt like speaking. All was quiet except for the creaking and rattling of the wagon and the plodding of hooves and feet on hollow-sounding ground. Up ahead, the endless prairies and the ominous thunderheads building over them appeared foreboding.
Emma broke the silence. “Daddy, is God mad at us?”
“I don’t think so, Honey. Why do you ask?” Edmund could already see where this was coming from, as he had doubts plaguing him too.
Emma felt frustrated. “It seems like we keep having bad luck and you say there is no such thing as luck. Then if it’s all in God’s plan, He must be against us. I mean, we were going to start a church, right? But the whole way we keep having problems—more than anyone else, at least. And now we’re not even going to Oregon.”
Edmund mulled it over before answering. “I don’t know, Em. I don’t know what the Lord’s plan is for us. Sometimes I get frustrated too. It does seem like we’re getting more stumbling blocks than stepping stones, doesn’t it? Maybe it’s a test.” Then he said with a wink, “Maybe He wants us to go convert the Mormons”.
“Convert ‘em?” Emma was aghast. “I just hope they don’t kill us! Daddy I’m scared. I’m scared of the Mormons. I’m scared of the Indians. I’m scared that we’ll be all alone…”
Edmund put his arm around his daughter. “I’m scared too, Emma. I just don’t know what else we can do. We’ve got to trust that the Lord sees the big picture and that He’s watching over us.”
Camping alone that first night was intimidating. They’d crossed the Green River on the Lombard ferry and traveled fourteen miles alone, but the wide-open night sky punctuated the loneliness and vulnerability. No one felt much like talking, but when Mary Ann opened her Bible and began to read out loud from where she’d left off in Matthew, a spirit of calmness blanketed the camp. Somehow the beatitudes of Christ brought solace.
Mormon Trail, Wyoming – July 28, 1853
Mary Ann and Edmund walked ahead of the wagon, content to let George handle the team. “How do you feel?” Edmund queried, “About our detour to Salt Lake, I mean.”
Mary Ann reached to run her fingers through some pale sagebrush. “I’m not sure! I’m sad to leave Momma, but somehow I feel light. Like a huge weight has been lifted.”
Edmund agreed, “I know what you mean! It’s strange that even though this is altering all our plans, at least for this year, I still feel good about it. I mean, I still have concerns about the Indians and the Mormons. I worry about the wagon and the animals. And we are alone in the middle of nowhere… But I feel like it’s all going to turn out alright.”
“I feel that way too, Daddy.” It was Emma.
They turned to find her walking just behind them. Mary Ann slowed and took her hand. “I thought you wanted to ride in the wagon for a while.”
“I did for a ways, but I got bored. You were talking about going to Salt Lake... I was sad at first, but these last few days… I don’t know. I’m even a little bit excited.”
“I think that God is in this detour,” Mary Ann declared.
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